A few friends and I decided to start surfing in about 1973. We were on the high school swim team at the time and we noticed that a couple of the older guys on the team got really strong by surfing on the weekends. Tried it and got hooked.
20 or so years later more buddies and I got together on a team at work and won a contest for a cancer fund raiser. Here’s the team. I think the guy in the middle is Tom (either Doyle or Morey, not sure but some kind of surfing legend). You’re going to ask about the girl. She’s a La Jolla media representative named Margo something. Pat Connor and Doug Jones on the left, me on the right.
Still swimming when there’s no surf. Tried to get Chu daughter to do a little ocean swimming with me in 2008 but the springtime shark scare pretty much got everyone out of the water. Daughter still managed to get her varsity swimming letter as a sophomore.
Now it’s just paddle surfing a few times a week. It’s really fun but politically sensitive.
Chu Man Foo 
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